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GROWING OUT YOUR HAIR — THE IN-BETWEEN STAGES

The idea of growing out your hair is always appealing in the abstract. You see someone with a good medium-length cut, you think it would suit you, and you decide you're just going to let it do its thing for a while. Six weeks later you're standing in front of a mirror in a bathroom somewhere wondering why no one told you about month two.

Growing out a short cut is a process, and the middle of it is rarely flattering. But it doesn't have to be as bad as most people make it. The mistake everyone makes is stopping barber visits entirely. You still need trims during a grow-out. You're just trimming for shape rather than for length.

Month one — the easy part

The first four weeks are fine. You look like you just went a bit longer between cuts than usual. No one notices anything different, and even if they do, it's not bad. This is where most people decide growing out hair is easy and they don't need a plan.

Enjoy month one. It's the last time things will be straightforward for a while.

Month two — the awkward phase

This is where the wheels come off for most people. The sides have grown out enough that they don't look intentional anymore, the top is at that weird length where it's too long to be short and too short to be styled, and every time you look in a mirror you think, "did I always look like this?"

What you need at this point is a clean-up trim on the sides and back, and a tiny bit taken off the top just to square the ends off. You're not losing length overall — you're just shaping it so it grows evenly rather than patching out everywhere.

A lot of people skip this trim because they think if they cut anything at all, they're somehow losing progress. They're not. You're losing the parts of the hair that are making you look unkempt. The alternative is two more months of looking like you've given up.

Month three onwards — it gets easier

By week twelve the top has enough length that you can start to do something with it. You can push it to the side, sweep it back, or at the very least it doesn't stick straight out at the sides. The awkward phase is not completely over, but it's no longer the first thing people notice when they see you.

At this point you're coming in every five or six weeks for a shape-up, not a cut. Trim the neckline, tidy the sides, take the split ends off the top. That's it. The hair keeps growing, and each visit makes it look a little more deliberate.

What to do with it in the meantime

While you're waiting for the length to get where you want it, a few small things make the process easier:

Sea salt spray. Your best friend during a grow-out. It adds texture and hides the fact that the hair is between lengths. Spritz it into damp hair and let it air dry.

A hat when you need it. There's no shame in a cap during week eight. Everyone who has ever grown out their hair has gone through a hat phase. Just don't wear it inside, and don't make it your entire personality.

Don't straighten it. If you have wavy or curly hair, don't fight it during the grow-out — texture is doing more for you than length. The texture is actually working in your favour here, because it distracts from the uneven lengths. Straight, fine hair has a harder time of it for exactly this reason.

The important thing

Almost everyone who tries to grow out their hair bails at week six to ten. They look in the mirror, they can't see the end of the tunnel, and they get a number two all over. Then six months later they have the exact same idea.

If you want to do it, book the clean-up trim at week eight. Tell your barber you're growing it out and you just want it tidy. One appointment. Thirty minutes. That's the difference between making it through and starting over again for the third time.

The payoff is worth it. A good medium-length cut that you've grown into yourself looks better than any cut you could have asked for on day one. You just have to get through the middle first.

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